![]() ![]() Pascarella drives us up a gravelled runway departing slight via San Giacomo, from which he had been calling out the names of the small vineyard sites diving or soaring as we moved past them on this path promising to never end. That is, harvested from 338 hectares of vines concentrated in the most difficult and storied parts of the DOCG’s more than 8,600 hectares (one-third, recently noted Diego Tomasi, viticultural researcher and new director of the DOCG’s Consorzio, of which are certified by the bee-logoed Integrated Crop Management National Quality System (SQNPI) - given age, difficulty in reaching, guidance with room for how it was done before, I will guess a higher number is true for the Rive). This complicity makes them valuable for understanding how we arrived at this critical moment in human history.” At the winery, members’ prized grapes are turned to sparkling wines, Prosecco Superiore bottles labelled Val d’Oca which since 2008 has been the cooperative’s azienda, born from their 1990s’-era restaurant-focused brand with a mission to present and safeguard where its members are. Much like writing itself, they are complicit with the resource-extracting way of life that has accelerated in the last two hundred years. To recast wildly from “books” in Puchner’s writing, wines “are not neutral tools. “Such an act,” Puchner writes, “would mean deciding how best to make that agent visible, what kind of manifesto or other genre would bring it to the forefront of our understanding.” A meeting place of UNESCO cultural preservation and ongoing responses to synthetic farming substances including the ban of glyphosate-based herbicides at the start of 2019, Prosecco Superiore is one such agent particularly readable in the work of 591 of its growers together. Such cooperative work might be one answer to a question like, “How could anyone define the collective agent that would rise up to solve climate change?” proposed by Martin Puchner, an editor of the Norton Anthology of World Literature. Pascarella is the son of a founder, a grower himself, and one of the cooperative’s now 591 members, who together know the area best over recent centuries. ![]() The Cantina was founded in 1952 by 129 growers responding to what the Second World War, “which caused profound devastations to souls and to society which needed to recover both economically and morally” 1 had left in the hills. Together they are six percent of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOCG’s vined territory, and, small plots owned separately and worked by hand, every year they take four times longer to care for than the 200 hours needed for each hectare in the region’s more mechanically inclined Prosecco-growing flatlands outside the denomination. There are 43 such steepnesses, called, officially since 2019, Rive. He is the Advisor for Agronomic Activities for the Gruppo Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene, a cooperative on the western edge of the Veneto’s historic Prosecco hills with eighty percent of its members in the four steep comuni of Valdobbiadene, Vidor, Soligo, Miane, northwesternmost of Prosecco Superiore productions. Gordon 2022Įveryone talks about sustainability but no one remembers the names of the viticulturists, says Giovanni Pascarella of the recognition reserved instead for winemakers. ![]() Prosecco Superiore villages as seen from the Gruppo Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene's Val d'Oca. ![]()
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